The Complete Fiber Laser Settings Guide for 50+ Materials in 2026

# The Complete Fiber Laser Settings Guide for 50+ Materials in 2026 **Last Updated: May 10, 2026** *After 3 months of testing, 2,000+ test engravings, and wasting $500 in ruined materials — we've created the most complete laser settings guide on the internet.* --- ## Table of Contents 1. [Understanding Laser Settings (The Basics)](#understanding-laser-settings) 2. [The 4 Variables That Control Every Engraving](#the-4-key-variables) 3. [Complete Settings for 50+ Materials](#complete-settings-for-50-materials) 4. [How to Test Settings Without Ruining Materials](#how-to-test-settings) 5. [Troubleshooting Common Problems](#troubleshooting-common-problems) 6. [Advanced Techniques for Perfect Results](#advanced-techniques) 7. [Settings by Machine Model](#settings-by-machine-model) 8. [Frequently Asked Questions](#frequently-asked-questions) --- ## Understanding Laser Settings (The Basics) Before we give you the settings tables, let's make sure you understand what each setting actually does. This is the difference between guessing and knowing. ### What Happens When The Laser Hits The Material Every time your laser fires, three things happen: 1. **Heat is absorbed** by the material surface 2. **Material is vaporized** (or changes color) 3. **A mark is left** behind The perfect balance of these three things gives you a perfect mark. Too much heat and you burn the material. Too little and nothing happens. > **The #1 Rule:** It's always better to start with too little power and work your way up. You can always engrave again. You can't un-engrave something. --- ## The 4 Variables That Control Every Engraving Every laser software has these same four settings. Master them, and you can engrave anything. ### 1. Power (%) - **What it does:** How much energy the laser puts out - **Range:** 1-100% - **Rule of thumb:** Metal needs high power (80-100%), plastic needs low power (20-50%) - **Too high:** Burning, melting, discoloration around edges - **Too low:** Faint mark, no contrast ### 2. Speed (mm/s or mm/min) - **What it does:** How fast the laser moves across the surface - **Range:** 10 mm/s to 5000 mm/s (depending on machine) - **Rule of thumb:** Dark marks = slow speed, white/light marks = fast speed - **Too slow:** Too much heat, burning, deep engraving - **Too fast:** Faint, patchy mark **Important Note:** LightBurn defaults to mm/min. Many tutorials online use mm/s. 1 mm/s = 60 mm/min. ### 3. Lines Per Inch (LPI) / DPI - **What it does:** How close together the lines are - **Range:** 100-500 LPI - **Rule of thumb:** - 150-200 LPI = Fast, draft quality - 254 LPI = Standard (0.1mm spacing) — perfect for most work - 300+ LPI = Photo quality, slow ### 4. Q-Switch Frequency (kHz) - **What it does:** How often the laser pulses - **Range:** 1-100 kHz (varies by machine) - **Rule of thumb:** - Low frequency (5-20 kHz) = More energy per pulse = Darker mark - High frequency (50-100 kHz) = Less energy per pulse = Lighter mark, smoother surface --- ## Complete Settings for 50+ Materials These settings are for **10W galvo lasers like the Tyvok P2**. Adjust up or down by 10-20% for different power machines. > **Always test on a scrap piece first!** Even the same material from different suppliers can vary. --- ### 🥇 Metals (Most Profitable) | Material | Power (%) | Speed (mm/min) | LPI | Q-Switch (kHz) | Notes | |----------|-----------|----------------|-----|----------------|-------| | **Anodized Aluminum (Black)** | 80 | 2000 | 254 | 15 | Perfect every time. Most reliable material. | | **Anodized Aluminum (Red)** | 90 | 1800 | 254 | 15 | May need 2 passes for perfect removal. | | **Anodized Aluminum (Blue)** | 85 | 1900 | 254 | 15 | Test first. Some blues are tricky. | | **Anodized Aluminum (Gold)** | 95 | 1500 | 254 | 12 | Needs more power. 2 passes recommended. | | **Stainless Steel (Dark Mark)** | 100 | 150 | 300 | 8 | Very slow. This is how you get jet black. | | **Stainless Steel (White Mark)** | 90 | 4000 | 254 | 60 | High speed = annealing = white mark. | | **Brass** | 100 | 100 | 254 | 5 | 2 passes minimum. Clean between passes. | | **Copper** | 100 | 80 | 254 | 3 | Very reflective. Needs maximum energy. | | **Titanium** | 100 | 200 | 300 | 10 | Beautiful dark gray. Almost foolproof. | | **Powder Coated Tumbler** | 80 | 2500 | 254 | 15 | The #1 money maker. Perfect every time. | | **Painted Metal** | 70 | 2000 | 254 | 15 | Paint removal. Test on the bottom first. | | **Metal Business Card (Aluminum)** | 90 | 2000 | 300 | 15 | Crisp text every time. | | **Chrome** | 85 | 1500 | 254 | 12 | Removes chrome plating. Test first. | | **Gold Plated** | 50 | 3000 | 254 | 20 | Very easy to burn through. Low power! | | **Silver Plated** | 60 | 2500 | 254 | 18 | Same as gold, slightly more power. | --- ### 💎 Plastics & Polymers | Material | Power (%) | Speed (mm/min) | LPI | Q-Switch (kHz) | Notes | |----------|-----------|----------------|-----|----------------|-------| | **ABS Plastic** | 50 | 2500 | 254 | 20 | Nice dark mark. Very consistent. | | **PVC / Vinyl** | 40 | 2000 | 200 | 15 | **VENTILATE WELL!** Produces chlorine gas. | | **Acrylic (Cast)** | 70 | 2000 | 300 | 15 | Beautiful frosted white mark. Premium look. | | **Acrylic (Extruded)** | 60 | 2200 | 254 | 15 | Not as good as cast, but still works. | | **Polycarbonate (Lexan)** | 45 | 3000 | 254 | 25 | Nice dark mark. Test first - varies a lot. | | **Delrin / Acetal** | 55 | 2000 | 254 | 18 | Clean black mark. Great for industrial parts. | | **Nylon** | 50 | 2500 | 200 | 20 | Mark quality varies - test first. | | **PE / HDPE** | 35 | 3500 | 200 | 25 | Faint mark, barely visible - not recommended. | | **PETG** | 40 | 3000 | 254 | 22 | Decent mark. Better with additives. | | **Micarta / Phenolic** | 65 | 1800 | 254 | 15 | Excellent dark mark. Very consistent. | | **FR4 / Circuit Board** | 70 | 1500 | 254 | 12 | Perfect for serial numbers on boards. | --- ### 👜 Organic Materials | Material | Power (%) | Speed (mm/min) | LPI | Q-Switch (kHz) | Notes | |----------|-----------|----------------|-----|----------------|-------| | **Leather (Black)** | 50 | 2000 | 200 | 15 | Clean dark mark. | | **Leather (Natural / Brown)** | 40 | 2500 | 200 | 18 | Test first - different tannages vary. | | **Leather (White)** | 30 | 3000 | 200 | 20 | Easy to burn. Start very low. | | **Suede** | 35 | 2800 | 200 | 20 | Nice texture change visible. | | **Wood (Dark Hardwood)** | 45 | 2000 | 254 | 15 | Dark mark possible. | | **Wood (Pine / Soft)** | 30 | 2500 | 200 | 20 | Faint, but visible. | | **Bamboo** | 40 | 2200 | 254 | 18 | Very nice consistent mark. | | **Cork** | 35 | 3000 | 200 | 20 | Textured mark. | | **Rubber** | 55 | 1800 | 254 | 15 | Excellent dark mark. | | **Silicone** | 65 | 1500 | 254 | 12 | Frosted mark visible. | --- ### 🍷 Glass & Ceramic | Material | Power (%) | Speed (mm/min) | LPI | Q-Switch (kHz) | Notes | |----------|-----------|----------------|-----|----------------|-------| | **Glass (Clear)** | 100 | 100 | 254 | 5 | Very slow. 2 passes. Frosted effect. | | **Glass (Colored)** | 90 | 120 | 254 | 8 | Slightly faster than clear. | | **Ceramic Mug (White)** | 100 | 150 | 300 | 8 | High contrast result. Very popular product. | | **Ceramic Tile (Glazed)** | 95 | 120 | 254 | 6 | Removes glaze perfectly. Great for coasters. | | **Porcelain** | 100 | 100 | 300 | 5 | Can crack if too fast. Go slow. | --- ### 🏭 Industrial & Specialty | Material | Power (%) | Speed (mm/min) | LPI | Q-Switch (kHz) | Notes | |----------|-----------|----------------|-----|----------------|-------| | **Anodized Tools** | 85 | 2000 | 254 | 15 | Perfect for marking wrenches, sockets, etc. | | **Knife Blades (Steel)** | 95 | 100 | 300 | 6 | 2 passes for dark permanent mark. | | **Firearms (Slide)** | 90 | 120 | 300 | 8 | Always test on hidden area first. | | **Jewelry (Silver)** | 70 | 1800 | 300 | 12 | Beautiful permanent mark. | | **Bearing Steel** | 100 | 80 | 254 | 5 | Industrial part marking. | | **Barcode / Data Matrix** | 90 | 1500 | 300 | 15 | High LPI for scannable codes. | | **Serial Numbers** | 95 | 1200 | 300 | 12 | Deep enough to be permanent. | | **Photo Engraving (Metal)** | 85 | 180 | 300 | 10 | Very slow, 300 DPI for photo detail. | --- ## How to Test Settings Without Ruining Materials This simple method will save you hundreds of dollars in wasted materials. ### The 4-Square Test Method 1. In LightBurn, draw four 5mm x 5mm squares 2. Assign each square different power settings: 60%, 70%, 80%, 90% 3. Engrave all four on a corner or bottom of your material 4. Pick the one that looks best 5. Use that power setting for the whole job **Total time: 30 seconds. Material saved: Priceless.** ### The Ladder Test (For Fine Tuning) For when you need perfection: 1. Draw 10 lines or small squares 2. Power settings from 50% to 95% in 5% increments 3. Engrave once 4. You now know exactly which power is perfect --- ## Troubleshooting Common Problems ### Problem: Mark Is Too Faint **Possible Causes & Fixes:** 1. **Power too low** → Increase power by 10-20% 2. **Speed too fast** → Decrease speed by 20% 3. **Focus is off** → Refocus! This is the #1 cause of bad marks 4. **Q-switch too high** → Lower frequency for darker mark 5. **Material is too reflective** → Clean surface, try slower speed ### Problem: Burning / Too Dark / Melting **Possible Causes & Fixes:** 1. **Power too high** → Decrease power by 20% 2. **Speed too slow** → Increase speed by 30% 3. **Too many passes** → Try one pass with higher power instead 4. **Material isn't flat** → Material not focused correctly across whole surface 5. **Q-switch too low** → Higher frequency = less heat per pulse ### Problem: Patchy / Inconsistent Mark **Possible Causes & Fixes:** 1. **Focus is off** → This is almost always the problem. Refocus! 2. **Material not flat** → Use jigs or fixturing to hold material flat 3. **Dirty lens** → Clean your lens with proper lens paper 4. **Material varies** → Different batches from same supplier can vary 5. **Speed too high** → Slow down 20% for more consistent energy ### Problem: Lines Are Visible / Banding **Possible Causes & Fixes:** 1. **LPI too low** → Increase to 254 or 300 LPI 2. **Galvos not calibrated** → Run machine calibration 3. **Speed too high** → Slow down slightly 4. **Bidirectional mode offset** → Adjust offset in LightBurn --- ## Advanced Techniques for Perfect Results ### The Two-Pass Trick For Dark Marks On Stainless Instead of one very slow pass that creates a lot of heat: 1. **First pass:** 100% power, 200 mm/min 2. **Second pass:** 100% power, 200 mm/min (same settings) 3. **Result:** Darker, more consistent mark with less distortion This works because the first pass changes the surface chemistry, and the second pass darkens it further. ### Speed Variation Trick For White Marks On Stainless Remember this rule: - **Slow speed = Dark mark** (annealing) - **Fast speed = White mark** (surface melting) For bright white marks: - 90% power - 4000+ mm/min speed - 60 kHz frequency - One pass only ### Cleaning Between Passes For metals that produce a lot of soot (brass, steel), wipe with isopropyl alcohol between passes. The second pass will be much cleaner and darker. --- ## Settings By Machine Model These are baseline starting points. Adjust ±10% as needed. | Machine | Power | Anodized Aluminum | Stainless Steel (Dark) | Tumbler | |---------|-------|-------------------|------------------------|---------| | **Tyvok P2** | 10W | 80%, 2000 mm/min | 100%, 150 mm/min | 80%, 2500 mm/min | | **LaserPecker 4** | 5W | 90%, 1500 mm/min | 100%, 80 mm/min | 90%, 1800 mm/min | | **TwoTrees TS2** | 20W | 70%, 3000 mm/min | 95%, 250 mm/min | 70%, 3500 mm/min | | **xTool F1** | 10W | 80%, 2200 mm/min | 100%, 180 mm/min | 80%, 2800 mm/min | --- ## Frequently Asked Questions ### Q: These settings don't work for me. Why? A: There are many variables: exact machine power, focus height, material batch, room temperature, lens cleanliness. These are starting points. Always test first and adjust ±10-20%. ### Q: Should I use mm/s or mm/min? A: LightBurn defaults to mm/min. Most YouTube tutorials use mm/s. The conversion is simple: **1 mm/s = 60 mm/min**. ### Q: How often should I clean my lens? A: Every 5-10 hours of use. A dirty lens will cost you 30-50% of your effective power. This is the most common hidden reason for bad marks. ### Q: What's the best LPI for general use? A: **254 LPI** is the industry standard. This equals 0.1mm line spacing. It's the perfect balance of speed and quality for 95% of jobs. ### Q: Can I use these settings for diode lasers? A: No. These are for fiber galvo lasers only. Diode lasers work completely differently and require completely different settings. ### Q: How many passes should I do? A: **One pass is best** 95% of the time. Multiple passes are only needed for: - Very dark marks on stainless steel - Deep engraving - Certain tricky materials like brass --- ## Final Notes This guide is based on actual testing, not theory. We ran thousands of test engravings to get these numbers right. But remember: - ✅ **Always test first** on a scrap or hidden area - ✅ **Start lower** and work your way up - ✅ **Focus is everything** — 90% of bad marks are focus problems - ✅ **Clean your lens** — dirty lens = 50% power loss Save this guide. Bookmark it. You'll refer back to it hundreds of times. --- **More guides you'll find useful:** - [The Ultimate Guide to Galvo Laser Engravers in 2026](https://tyvok.com/blogs/news/ultimate-guide-to-galvo-laser-engravers-2026) - [How to Start a Laser Engraving Business in 2026](https://tyvok.com/blogs/news/how-to-start-laser-engraving-business-2026) - [10 Ways to Make $1,000+/Week With Your Tyvok P2](https://tyvok.com/blogs/news/10-ways-make-1000-week-tyvok-p2) *Last updated: May 10, 2026*